Tranquil Desert Havens

From Ocean Navigator #138
May/June 2004
Every ocean or sea has its own mythology, and though some of it is largely fictional, many of these myths have an element of truth: the Roaring Forties really do roar, and the Pacific can be as peaceful as its name implies. The Red Sea is not exempt from myth-making and, indeed, has perhaps more than its fair share: unmarked reefs, gale-force headwinds, pirates and hostile coastlines occupied by warring nations, to name but a few. However, the myths are in need of updating. As boats and equipment have moved on, so too has the political climate of the region.

A yacht headed north in the Suez Canal. It takes voyaging sailboats roughly two days to pass through the canal into the Mediterranean, typically motoring flat out into a lively headwind.
   Image Credit: Brian Savage

Contrary winds

In Egyptian hieroglyphics, the symbol for south is a boat flying full sail, the symbol for north is a boat with no sail and instead a full complement of oarsmen. In broad terms, the ancient Egyptians got it absolutely right for the Egyptian coast of the Red Sea – northerly winds prevail, making a southbound passage the preferred option. However, that runs contrary to the downwind round-the-world route. More than 200 boats came up the Red Sea in 2003; only a handful of boats were sailing south.

Timing a Red Sea passage requires a great deal more than just considering the 1,300 miles from Bab al Mandab to the straits to Suez. First you have to get across the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Aden. An east-to-west crossing from Asia to approach the southern end of the Red Sea can be undertaken with favorable winds only during the southeast monsoon, between January and May. (Thereafter, the northwest monsoon sets in, enabling a west-to-east passage for those who have traveled south down the Red Sea.)


Having carried favorable winds past Bab al Mandab, yachts anticipate headwinds for much of the rest of the way. Thus, boats were looking with trepidation at a several-hundred-mile beat to windward. And the motor yachts were not much better off, as the seas are reputedly short and steep.

Though broadly true, the situation is not as bad as it seems. For the first 25 percent of the passage (as far as Eritrea) the winds prevail from the southeast. A convergence zone drifts up and down the Red Sea, tending to hover around Eritrea (south of Sudan). Prudent planning and the availability of good weather forecasts means that a well-timed departure from Aden or Djibouti will result in downwind (or no-wind) sailing as far as Massawa, Eritrea’s only port.

 

The next section of the passage runs from Eritrea to Egypt, and though brisk northerly winds blow for much of the time, every so often the wind shifts round to the south for anything from one to three days, allowing boats to make significant progress north. There are numerous anchorages along the way, and it is possible to optimize favorable winds by sailing north until the wind backs, then turning into the nearest anchorage, even if that involves some backtracking.

Image Credit: Brian Savage

Sandstorms are a regular feature of a Red Sea passage. Four months after the authors’ trip they still saw sand run out of Theta Volantis’ mast when it rained.

It is quite astonishing how rapidly the wind directions change, with almost no drop in velocity. A 30-knot southerly becomes a 30-knot northerly in as short a time as an hour.

This is where improved weather forecasting has dramatically changed the experience of a northbound passage. Many boats now have access to email via SSB or satellite telephones; obtaining regular weather updates is, therefore, a simpler process. In addition, SSB nets rebroadcast weather information to those without email access. In 2003 (and to be continued in 2004) Buoyweather provided weather information free of charge to be rebroadcast each day by a nominated boat. As that boat transited Suez, another vessel farther south took over.

Of course, there has been some form of weather forecasting available for some years, but www.buoyweather.com provides data for individual lat/long positions, thus making it possible to identify exactly when and where the shift to southerlies will take place and, equally important, when it will reverse. On one occasion, a Buoyweather prediction of a shift from south 35 knots to northwest 35 to 40 knots in a six-hour window (Buoyweather data is provided at six hourly intervals) was 100 percent correct and allowed a dozen or so boats to make it across Foul Bay and into a safe anchorage just before the wind shifted.

For the middle section of the passage, there are many anchorages to choose from, unlike the last section from Hurghada to Suez. Although this last section is only 200 miles, it is the shortest of the three sectors and often the most difficult. There are few good anchorages, and the northerly winds funnel down this narrow strip of water bordered by the mountains of Sinai on the east and Egypt to the west. What’s more, what shelter the anchorages afford is from the north, so boats taking advantage of a southerly have few options if they want to anchor overnight. And night sailing among the oil rigs and workboats poses its own challenges.

There is a tendency to consider the passage over on arrival in Suez, but the northerlies are not over. Boats with modest engine power can struggle to make good speed through the canal against a strong northerly – one took a tow from a barge in order to improve progress.

Having painted a picture of fickle or strong contrary winds, it is only fair to point out that in 2003, on a two-month northbound passage, Theta Volantis was never once called upon to beat, was often able to reach at excellent speeds and occasionally motored into light winds – hardly a passage to grumble about.

Security amid shifting political sands

The first thought most people have about the Red Sea, contrary winds aside, is security related, and there is some truth in the rumors and fears that circulate in the voyaging community. Strictly speaking, piracy does not pose a threat in the Red Sea; getting to the Red Sea through the Gulf of Aden is the problem. And it is a real problem, fueled by exaggeration and repetition certainly, but a real danger nevertheless. Consequently, most small craft travel in convoy with other vessels.

In 2003, two yachts in convoy, Bambola and Josephine, were attacked by pirates (see Pirate attack in the Gulf of Aden Issue 131, July/Aug. 2003), and there is at least one other confirmed report of a convoy of five yachts being chased, possibly by the same pirates, based on their description. The chase took place while the regular SSB net was running, and it made for chilling listening.

Image Credit: Brian Savage

The authors sampled the Eritrean countryside on the inaugural run of a recently restored six-seat, self-powered rail car. The rail line runs from the inland Eritrean capital of Asmara to the Red Sea Port of Massawa.

Because of the specific dangers in this area, the informal SSB net evolved, allowing yachts to check in each day. It was interrupted by the yacht Penlynn to ask for a description of the boats that had attacked Bambola. A few minutes later Penlynn broadcast a mayday. In view of Bambola’s fate, the convoy decided to attempt to outrun the pirates in the hope that help would arrive in time. Thankfully they succeeded, and the entire Red Sea voyaging fleet tuned to the SSB frequency breathed a collective sigh of relief. But it was a close-run affair, and it jangled everyone’s nerves, particularly those still to leave Oman.

Once through the Bab al Mandab strait, there is little to fear from pirates, though overzealous, and in some cases corrupt, officials can cause anxiety. The Hanish islands are a convenient anchorage for a boat that has passed through Bab al Mandab. Unfortunately, boats anchored there are often hassled by officials who may attempt to board the boat.

On the western side of the southern Red Sea, the war between Ethiopia and Eritrea historically caused security problems for yachts, but now that Eritrea has earned its independence, this is a much more stable area. It is largely safe for small craft, other than close to the border between these two uneasy neighbors. Border disputes are not confined to these two nations; the border areas between Sudan and Egypt are also disputed territory. Avoid stopping there if possible.

On the east side of the Red Sea lies Saudi Arabia. Yachts are not allowed to visit, and if they have to make an emergency stop, crews are confined to the boat and are expected to leave as soon as possible. Much the same is true of Sinai. Although Sinai has now been returned to Egypt, there is a high level of security in the territory, and visitors on yachts are not encouraged. While taking shelter from a northerly wind, a very aggressive official boarded Theta Volantis, and despite being given copies of passports, visas and clearance documents, he demanded that the captain accompany him ashore. The captain declined the invitation most emphatically, insisting that it was too late at night, and he would go ashore in the morning. Undoubtedly, considerable baksheesh (Egyptian for bribe) would be needed to elicit a return to the yacht. Needless to say, Theta Volantis was under way by dawn.

An essential part of the officials-bluffing kit onboard is numerous copies of all documentation likely to be useful – ship’s papers, crew lists, passports, visas, etc. Copies of passports are particularly important, as it then means there is no reason for your passport to be taken away from you, normally requiring baksheesh for its return. The Red Sea Pilot contains a form in Arabic that can be completed to assist in negotiations in the more remote anchorages. Note that every bay is likely to have its own small army/police outpost who will delight in opening your wallet if they can.

In 2003 the political stability of the region was under particular pressure as the Iraq war got under way and military convoys headed south to the Gulf. At night it was disconcerting to pick up fast-moving echoes on the radar, apparently changing direction at random. These were low-flying helicopters on guard duty for the warships. Whereas sightings of evidence of the war were common at sea, ashore there was no discernible indication of the invasion taking place across the desert. Only in Cairo, where there were demonstrations against the war, was there any need to exercise extra caution.

The good news

Most people do a fair amount of research before tackling a Red Sea passage and are well prepared with regard to weather and security. But you can’t prepare for the stunning beauty of the marsas, the thrill of anchoring in the shabs, the gentle warmth of the welcome that visitors receive (Egyptian officials aside), crystal clear water, fabulous scuba diving, and sunsets over the desert that take your breath away. Far from being onerous, a Red Sea passage is a delight.

One of the gems of the trip is Eritrea, where peace has descended finally, and it is now a lovely place to visit. A trip inland to Asmara, the capital high in the mountains, is a must. This erstwhile Italian colonial town has lost none of its charm, and how extraordinary it is to be able to eat a superb Italian meal washed down by an espresso – made with Eritrean coffee, of course. Several kilos of Eritrean coffee went aboard Theta Volantis, and every time we use it, it brings back fond memories of the coffee ceremonies enacted each evening in the street or on a doorstep.

The railway line that prewar ran from Asmara to Massawa is currently being repaired and should be fully operational soon; this will prevent the long drive through the mountains. A friendly engineer keen to test the line agreed to take a few boat crews on an inaugural trip down the mountain in a newly refurbished locomotive. The views were stupendous, and the wildlife on the track simply added to the experience. Villagers rushed out of their houses to wave at the train, the first the younger people had ever seen on the track.

The beauty of the Sudanese coast is hard to capture in words. Deep marsas penetrate the desert for several miles, offering complete shelter surrounded by nothing but desert, flocks of migrating storks, an occasional nomad and a few wandering camels. It was never a hardship to sit out the northerlies, and when a southerly break came, many chose to wait for the next one, reluctant to leave these tranquil havens, where it was difficult to agree whether the sunrise lighting up the mountains or the sun setting behind them was the most glorious.

Image Credit: Brian Savage

This yacht makes the headwinds of the Suez Canal easier to take by getting a northbound tow from an Egyptian commercial vessel.

Offshore shabs, isolated reefs, offer a different type of shelter. These were havens for scuba divers. Charts for most of the area mark all reefs, only in Foul Bay are unmarked reefs likely to be encountered, and in good daylight the reefs are easy to see. Moving slightly more offshore at night enables many dangers to be missed.

Finally, the wondrous ancient sites of Egypt are just a short trip from Hurghada, the main port for boats clearing into Egypt. Many crews took boat trips down the Nile to visit the temples of the Valley of the Kings and the ancient city of Thebes (now Luxor). A new marina provides a safe place to leave a boat while traveling inland.

Not only does it pay to take time over this passage to take advantage of favorable weather, but there is so much to see and do that to rush it is to miss an area of outstanding natural beauty and immense historical significance.

Colleen Ryan and Brian Savage have been cruising around the world onboard their Sundeer 64 since 1994. They left Thailand in January 2003 and completed their nine-year circumnavigation in Gibraltar in May 2004.

For more pictures and information on convoys, go to www.OceanNavigator.com and click the Web Extras button.

Timing a Red Sea passage requires a great deal more than just considering the 1,300 miles from Bab al Mandab to the straits to Suez. First you have to get across the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Aden. An east-to-west crossing from Asia to approach the southern end of the Red Sea can be undertaken with favorable winds only during the southeast monsoon, between January and May. (Thereafter, the northwest monsoon sets in, enabling a west-to-east passage for those who have traveled south down the Red Sea.)

Having carried favorable winds past Bab al Mandab, yachts anticipate headwinds for much of the rest of the way. Thus, boats were looking with trepidation at a several-hundred-mile beat to windward. And the motor yachts were not much better off, as the seas are reputedly short and steep.

Though broadly true, the situation is not as bad as it seems. For the first 25 percent of the passage (as far as Eritrea) the winds prevail from the southeast. A convergence zone drifts up and down the Red Sea, tending to hover around Eritrea (south of Sudan). Prudent planning and the availability of good weather forecasts means that a well-timed departure from Aden or Djibouti will result in downwind (or no-wind) sailing as far as Massawa, Eritrea’s only port.

The next section of the passage runs from Eritrea to Egypt, and though brisk northerly winds blow for much of the time, every so often the wind shifts round to the south for anything from one to three days, allowing boats to make significant progress north. There are numerous anchorages along the way, and it is possible to optimize favorable winds by sailing north until the wind backs, then turning into the nearest anchorage, even if that involves some backtracking.

It is quite astonishing how rapidly the wind directions change, with almost no drop in velocity. A 30-knot southerly becomes a 30-knot northerly in as short a time as an hour.

This is where improved weather forecasting has dramatically changed the experience of a northbound passage. Many boats now have access to email via SSB or satellite telephones; obtaining regular weather updates is, therefore, a simpler process. In addition, SSB nets rebroadcast weather information to those without email access. In 2003 (and to be continued in 2004) Buoyweather provided weather information free of charge to be rebroadcast each day by a nominated boat. As that boat transited Suez, another vessel farther south took over.

Of course, there has been some form of weather forecasting available for some years, but www.buoyweather.com provides data for individual lat/long positions, thus making it possible to identify exactly when and where the shift to southerlies will take place and, equally important, when it will reverse. On one occasion, a Buoyweather prediction of a shift from south 35 knots to northwest 35 to 40 knots in a six-hour window (Buoyweather data is provided at six hourly intervals) was 100 percent correct and allowed a dozen or so boats to make it across Foul Bay and into a safe anchorage just before the wind shifted.

For the middle section of the passage, there are many anchorages to choose from, unlike the last section from Hurghada to Suez. Although this last section is only 200 miles, it is the shortest of the three sectors and often the most difficult. There are few good anchorages, and the northerly winds funnel down this narrow strip of water bordered by the mountains of Sinai on the east and Egypt to the west. What’s more, what shelter the anchorages afford is from the north, so boats taking advantage of a southerly have few options if they want to anchor overnight. And night sailing among the oil rigs and workboats poses its own challenges.

There is a tendency to consider the passage over on arrival in Suez, but the northerlies are not over. Boats with modest engine power can struggle to make good speed through the canal against a strong northerly &mdash one took a tow from a barge in order to improve progress.

Having painted a picture of fickle or strong contrary winds, it is only fair to point out that in 2003, on a two-month northbound passage, Theta Volantis was never once called upon to beat, was often able to reach at excellent speeds and occasionally motored into light winds &mdash hardly a passage to grumble about.

Security amid shifting political sands

The first thought most people have about the Red Sea, contrary winds aside, is security related, and there is some truth in the rumors and fears that circulate in the voyaging community. Strictly speaking, piracy does not pose a threat in the Red Sea; getting to the Red Sea through the Gulf of Aden is the problem. And it is a real problem, fueled by exaggeration and repetition certainly, but a real danger nevertheless. Consequently, most small craft travel in convoy with other vessels.

In 2003, two yachts in convoy, Bambola and Josephine, were attacked by pirates (see Pirate attack in the Gulf of Aden Issue 131, July/Aug. 2003), and there is at least one other confirmed report of a convoy of five yachts being chased, possibly by the same pirates, based on their description. The chase took place while the regular SSB net was running, and it made for chilling listening.

Because of the specific dangers in this area, the informal SSB net evolved, allowing yachts to check in each day. It was interrupted by the yacht Penlynn to ask for a description of the boats that had attacked Bambola. A few minutes later Penlynn broadcast a mayday. In view of Bambola’s fate, the convoy decided to attempt to outrun the pirates in the hope that help would arrive in time. Thankfully they succeeded, and the entire Red Sea voyaging fleet tuned to the SSB frequency breathed a collective sigh of relief. But it was a close-run affair, and it jangled everyone’s nerves, particularly those still to leave Oman.

Once through the Bab al Mandab strait, there is little to fear from pirates, though overzealous, and in some cases corrupt, officials can cause anxiety. The Hanish islands are a convenient anchorage for a boat that has passed through Bab al Mandab. Unfortunately, boats anchored there are often hassled by officials who may attempt to board the boat.

On the western side of the southern Red Sea, the war between Ethiopia and Eritrea historically caused security problems for yachts, but now that Eritrea has earned its independence, this is a much more stable area. It is largely safe for small craft, other than close to the border between these two uneasy neighbors. Border disputes are not confined to these two nations; the border areas between Sudan and Egypt are also disputed territory. Avoid stopping there if possible.

On the east side of the Red Sea lies Saudi Arabia. Yachts are not allowed to visit, and if they have to make an emergency stop, crews are confined to the boat and are expected to leave as soon as possible. Much the same is true of Sinai. Although Sinai has now been returned to Egypt, there is a high level of security in the territory, and visitors on yachts are not encouraged. While taking shelter from a northerly wind, a very aggressive official boarded Theta Volantis, and despite being given copies of passports, visas and clearance documents, he demanded that the captain accompany him ashore. The captain declined the invitation most emphatically, insisting that it was too late at night, and he would go ashore in the morning. Undoubtedly, considerable baksheesh (Egyptian for bribe) would be needed to elicit a return to the yacht. Needless to say, Theta Volantis was under way by dawn.

An essential part of the officials-bluffing kit onboard is numerous copies of all documentation likely to be useful &mdash ship’s papers, crew lists, passports, visas, etc. Copies of passports are particularly important, as it then means there is no reason for your passport to be taken away from you, normally requiring baksheesh for its return. The Red Sea Pilot contains a form in Arabic that can be completed to assist in negotiations in the more remote anchorages. Note that every bay is likely to have its own small army/police outpost who will delight in opening your wallet if they can.

In 2003 the political stability of the region was under particular pressure as the Iraq war got under way and military convoys headed south to the Gulf. At night it was disconcerting to pick up fast-moving echoes on the radar, apparently changing direction at random. These were low-flying helicopters on guard duty for the warships. Whereas sightings of evidence of the war were common at sea, ashore there was no discernible indication of the invasion taking place across the desert. Only in Cairo, where there were demonstrations against the war, was there any need to exercise extra caution.

The good news

Most people do a fair amount of research before tackling a Red Sea passage and are well prepared with regard to weather and security. But you can’t prepare for the stunning beauty of the marsas, the thrill of anchoring in the shabs, the gentle warmth of the welcome that visitors receive (Egyptian officials aside), crystal clear water, fabulous scuba diving, and sunsets over the desert that take your breath away. Far from being onerous, a Red Sea passage is a delight.

One of the gems of the trip is Eritrea, where peace has descended finally, and it is now a lovely place to visit. A trip inland to Asmara, the capital high in the mountains, is a must. This erstwhile Italian colonial town has lost none of its charm, and how extraordinary it is to be able to eat a superb Italian meal washed down by an espresso &mdash made with Eritrean coffee, of course. Several kilos of Eritrean coffee went aboard Theta Volantis, and every time we use it, it brings back fond memories of the coffee ceremonies enacted each evening in the street or on a doorstep.

The railway line that prewar ran from Asmara to Massawa is currently being repaired and should be fully operational soon; this will prevent the long drive through the mountains. A friendly engineer keen to test the line agreed to take a few boat crews on an inaugural trip down the mountain in a newly refurbished locomotive. The views were stupendous, and the wildlife on the track simply added to the experience. Villagers rushed out of their houses to wave at the train, the first the younger people had ever seen on the track.

The beauty of the Sudanese coast is hard to capture in words. Deep marsas penetrate the desert for several miles, offering complete shelter surrounded by nothing but desert, flocks of migrating storks, an occasional nomad and a few wandering camels. It was never a hardship to sit out the northerlies, and when a southerly break came, many chose to wait for the next one, reluctant to leave these tranquil havens, where it was difficult to agree whether the sunrise lighting up the mountains or the sun setting behind them was the most glorious.

Offshore shabs, isolated reefs, offer a different type of shelter. These were havens for scuba divers. Charts for most of the area mark all reefs, only in Foul Bay are unmarked reefs likely to be encountered, and in good daylight the reefs are easy to see. Moving slightly more offshore at night enables many dangers to be missed.

Finally, the wondrous ancient sites of Egypt are just a short trip from Hurghada, the main port for boats clearing into Egypt. Many crews took boat trips down the Nile to visit the temples of the Valley of the Kings and the ancient city of Thebes (now Luxor). A new marina provides a safe place to leave a boat while traveling inland.

Not only does it pay to take time over this passage to take advantage of favorable weather, but there is so much to see and do that to rush it is to miss an area of outstanding natural beauty and immense historical significance.

Colleen Ryan and Brian Savage have been cruising around the world onboard their Sundeer 64 since 1994. They left Thailand in January 2003 and completed their nine-year circumnavigation in Gibraltar in May 2004.

For more pictures and information on convoys, go to www.OceanNavigator.com and click the Web Extras button.

By Ocean Navigator