01
Jan
When we arrived at Fanning Island in the Republic of Kiribati, we presented a letterhand-written on a piece of notebook paperto a customs official. The letter was signed by the French caretaker of an otherwise uninhabited U.S. atoll and was a far cry from the official zarpe, or departure clearance, that we should have carried with us from the U.S. Although we hadn't intended to visit Kiribati, it had become our best hope for obtaining entrance into a foreign port. If Kiribati turned us away, we had visions of becoming a modern-day Flying Dutchman, sailing forever but unable to land.…